Budget accommodation in Bagan is not exactly in the running for top Tripadvisor scores, but this a part, it is very hard not to be impressed by the sunset and even more the sunrise views of ancient Bagan - as long as you steer clear of the viewpoints where they drop tourist by busloads…
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Inle Lake fully met but did not surpass expectations: beautiful lake views, photogenic traditional fishermen, and many touristy stops at traditional handicrafts shops (where, granted, the sellers were informative and remarkably unpushy).
The train slowly rocked out of the station, and most tourists in the train car (hardly any Birmese were to be found in the VIP class) hung sleepily in their - rather comfortable - reclined seats. The train with end destination Hsipaw was an experience in itself, with the occasional bag falling out of the overhead compartments, a great many stops in dusty little towns and a passage over the highest bridge in Myanmar under military escort. Sebastian, a backpacker I met in Mandalay, and me hopped of the train in Kyaukme. Together with a French couple and a Russian Israeli, we set out on a two-day tour through the green hills of Shan State - guided tour that is, since our trekking tour would be skimming the borders of conflict zones. Though not spectacular, the tour was nice, with good views of a region thus far unspoiled by tourists, and fun sights of Myanmar village life.
The rooftop terrace was full of - mostly young - backpackers, enjoying their free hostel breakfast of toast and jam or eggs. At first sight, Myanmar sure gave off a touristy feel a la Thailand or at least Vietnam. But if you can tear yourself away from the modern-day comforts of the hostel, Mandalay reveals a couple of fine sights, such as the “world’s biggest book”, a large collection of stupas, each housing a stone tablet containing a part of the teachings of the Buddha.
Clouds slowly drifted over the water-filled rice terraces, lit by the dim light of a rising sun. The view was absolutely mesmerising. I was standing on a small patch of ground some hundred meters away from our hostel in the town of Pugaolao. I was glad I had come to this place, even though a thick pack of clouds drifted in ominously from the valley. After a hearty breakfast, my new Chinese friends and I set off to explore the viewpoints a bit further away. Clouds occasionally hid the views but in all, it was a fine day. The next day we were treated to clear blue skies, and with my new-found friends, I toured the region some more and enjoyed some good laughs.
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